What Does a Home Inspection Include? A Full Checklist (2026)
Published 2026-06-17 · Updated 2026-07-08
Think of it as a head-to-toe physical for the house: structure, roof, attic, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and every interior room get walked and documented against ASHI or InterNACHI standards. What comes out the other end is a written report flagging every defect the inspector could find, ranked by how urgent it is.
Checklist below is what gets covered. If you want a number to plan around first, the home inspection cost calculator gives a local estimate before you book anyone.
Structural components
- Foundation. The inspector checks for cracks, settling, water intrusion, and structural movement from inside the basement or crawlspace and by reviewing the exterior grade around the home.
- Framing and walls. Load-bearing walls, floor joists, and roof rafters are checked for damage, rot, pest activity, and any structural alterations that look like they were done without a permit.
- Floors, ceilings, and interior walls. Inspectors document staining, sagging, cracking, and any signs that point to past or ongoing moisture problems.
Roof and attic
- Roofing material. Shingles, tiles, or metal panels are evaluated for age, missing sections, significant granule loss, and installation issues. A roof showing heavy granule loss in the gutters is one worth noting.
- Flashings and penetrations. Chimney flashings, pipe boots, and skylight seals are common water entry points that inspectors examine closely.
- Attic insulation and ventilation. Proper ventilation prevents ice dams in cold climates and reduces cooling loads in warm ones. Inspectors note insulation R-value, coverage, and any areas where it has been disturbed or compressed.
- Attic structure. Rafters, collar ties, and ridge boards are checked for damage or signs of prior leaks.
Electrical system
- Main electrical panel. The inspector checks breaker labeling, looks for double-tapped breakers and overfusing, and flags evidence of amateur wiring. Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels get flagged regardless of apparent condition.
- Wiring type. Older homes sometimes have knob-and-tube or aluminum branch circuit wiring. Both are treated as elevated-risk materials by most insurers, which affects both insurability and negotiation leverage.
- Outlets and switches. A sample of outlets throughout the home are tested for proper grounding and polarity. GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and outdoor areas is verified.
- Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Presence is noted but full functionality testing may be limited.
Plumbing system
- Supply lines. Water pressure is tested. Pipe materials are noted: copper and PEX are fine; galvanized steel is aging; polybutylene (grey plastic pipe, often stamped "PB") is a material with a documented failure history that many insurers now flag.
- Drain lines. Visible drain pipes are checked for leaks, improper slope, and correct venting. A full sewer scope, which sends a camera through the main line to the street, is a separate add-on service.
- Water heater. Age, capacity, relief valve installation, and signs of corrosion or prior leakage are all documented. A water heater over 12 years old typically generates a note recommending budget planning for replacement.
- Fixtures. All faucets, toilets, showers, and tubs are tested for proper operation and leaks.
HVAC systems
- Furnace and air conditioner. The inspector runs the system, checks operation and filter condition, and specifically examines the heat exchanger on gas furnaces. A cracked heat exchanger is a carbon monoxide risk and a significant finding.
- Ductwork. Visible ducts are checked for damage, disconnection, or improper insulation.
- Fireplaces and chimneys. Interior fireboxes, dampers, and visible flue sections are checked. A full chimney inspection by a certified sweep, which includes a camera view of the liner, is a separate service that costs $100 to $250.
What a standard visit leaves out
Radon, mold, sewer scoping, pest and termite work, well and septic testing, chimney sweeping, pool and spa checks, and asbestos sampling all sit outside the general inspection. Each is its own specialty service with its own price tag. A good inspector will tell you which of these are worth ordering once they have seen the home's age, location, and whatever else turned up during the walk-through.
The finding that worries inspectors most
Ask most inspectors what keeps them up at night on a job and the answer is the foundation. Structural repairs run into real money, they are hard to hide from a future buyer, and they can complicate both insurance and a mortgage down the line. A close second tier includes an actively leaking roof, an electrical panel brand insurers have blacklisted, ongoing moisture where it should not be, and a cracked heat exchanger in the furnace. Any one of these tends to reopen negotiations or end the deal outright.
Quick answers
Can I tag along during the inspection?
You should. Following the inspector around lets you ask questions on the spot and see the severity of a finding with your own eyes, rather than trying to picture it from a written description two days later.
What happens once the report lands in my inbox?
You get a written report, typically within a day. From there you can ask the seller for repairs or a credit, renegotiate the price, or back out entirely if your contingency allows it and the findings justify it.
How do I pick a good inspector?
Look for ASHI or InterNACHI certification, proof of errors and omissions insurance, and a willingness to hand over a sample report before you book. A sample report says more about thoroughness than star ratings do.
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